Attachment for sewing machines



INVENTOR 44m l fi p g A ORNEY A H DE VOE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINESFiled May 6, 1918 May 27 1924.

WITNESSES= Patented May 27, 1924.

STATS ALBERT H. DE VOE, OF WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING- MACHINES.

Application filed May 6,

To all whomit may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT H. DE Von, a citizen of the United States,residing at l/vestiield, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Attachments forSewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, referencebeing had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly toattachments therefor directing work to the needles.

In the stitching of circular articles such as sleeves, trousers, skirts,shirts and the like, it is desirable to continue the operation of thesewing machine without interruption until the circular seam iscompleted. Wherever two plies of fabric are seamed together, whether itbe in a hem or in a lapped or felled seam, by the use of attachments, ofwhich there are a great variety, having a lip or flange which controlsthe fabric as it advances under the needle and which is located normallyin the line of seam formation, it is desirable to withdraw or retractthe lip or flange from the line of seam formation when the initialstitches in their circular travel are about to approach the needle. Itis an aim of this invention to provide simple and efficient means whichare governed by the initial stitches uniting the superposed layers offabric to effect withdrawal of an obstructing member and thus accomplishsaving of the operators time and an increase in production.

Some circular, or tubular work, like sleeves, is relatively small incircumference and in hemming such size garments it is desirable to soarrange the hemmer on the machine that the garment can be encircledthereabouts. A further aim of this invention is to improve thearrangement of under hemmers for sewing machines so that it will bepossible to hem under the margin of a small circular garment withfacility.

The invention is embodied in a form of hemmer similar to that disclosedin my Patent No. 1,443,680, of January 30, 1923, of which it forms acontinuation in part and to the construction disclosed in which has beenadded a latching mechanism holding a retractable member in normaloperating or hemming position against the action of a concealedthrust-spring until the latching mechanism is tripped by the initially1918. Serial No. 232,708.

formed stitches as they approach the presserfoot and the concealedspring allowed to displace the retractable member from itsobstructingposition in the line of seamformation to a non-obstructing position atone side thereof.

Other objects of the present'invention will appear in the followingdetail description of an illustrated form of my invention which is shownin the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is an end elevation of anattachment in which the invention has been embodied applied to a tubulararm sewing machine. Fig. 2 is a plan view thereof. Figs. 3 and 4 areperspective views of the hemming attachment per se. Fig. 5 is aperspective view of a base or block part thereof. Fig. 6 a perspectiveof a retractable folding member or lip, and Fig. 7 a perspective view ofthe attachment andwork show ing the manner of its use with theretractable lip in normal operating or hemming position.

The attachment,in which the invention is embodied and its principlesillustrated, is preferably but not necessarily sustained at one side ofthe tubular or work-supporting arm 1 of a sewing machine whosestitchforming mechanism comprises a pair of needles 2 and a cooperatinglooper 3 located in the end of the arm adjacent the feed-dog 4: whichadvances the work thereacross and cooperates withv a presser-foot 5 ofany suitable form. Any suitable mechanism may be employed to operate theparts mentioned which are old and well known in the art and need nofurther description.

The attachment in which the principle of the present invention isincorporated for the purpose of illustration, is in the form of ahemmer, indicated generally by the numeral 6. It comprises a base orblock 7, a main folding portion 8 and'a supplementary folding member orlip 9. The three parts are assembled as shown best in Figs. 3, 4 and 7with the supplementary folding member or lip 9 movably supported on topof the block and the main folding portion 8 adjustably supported on thebottom thereof.

The block 7 is provided with a curved bracket-arm 10 having elongatedslots 11 receiving screws 12 clamping the attachment adj ustably to thearm 1 in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, the elongated slots 11permitting adjustment transeena-5e versely to the line ofseam-formati0n. A concave edge-turning wall 13 is formed in one side ofthe block and a projection 14 carries this edge-turning wall intoproximity with the cooperating feed-dog and presser-foot, the saidprojection 14- being located in advance of the needles 2 between whichit directs the inner edge fold of the hem.

The main folding portion 8 on the bottom of the block 7 is formed withbroad and narrow tongues 15 and 16, respectively, which are spaced apartand guided by the ribs 17 and 18 formed on the bottom of a the block 7.In the tongue 15 an elongated slot 19 is formed and a thumb-screw 20threaded into the block, clamps the main folding portion 8 in a positionsuited to the width of hem to be made. From the tongue 15 and 16 themain folding portion 8 slopes slightly upward forming the bottom wall 21of a hem-folding cavity whose outer wall is defined by a concave bend 22and overhanging flange 23 at the end of the upwardly sloping bottom wall21. Towards the presser-foot the bend and flange 23 are extended beyondthe main body .of the attachment so as to guide and control the materialas close to the needles as possible. If desired the extension may bemade long enough to reach alongside of the presser-foot.

The supplemental folding member or lip 9 on top of the block 7 isprovided with a depending flange 25 secured at right angles to which isa pin 26, preferably by a screw 27 threaded into one end thereof. Thepin 26 is slidably mounted in a horizontally arranged socket 28 and aspring 29, in asocket 29 in the block, tends to hold the lip 9 in aretracted position, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, such position beingdetermined by a shoulder or stop 30 formed on the lip 9 and adapted toabut against the side of a vertical plate 31, sunk in the end of theblock 7 and secured thereto by a screw 32, with its upper end projectinga short dis tance above the top of the block. The folding member or lip9 is moved manually to normal operating or hemming position which isdetermined by engagement of the depending flange 25 with the outsidewall or face 33 of the block 7. In this position the lip is adapted tobe held by a latching mechanism comprising a trip 34; having a shoulder35 and pivoted at 36 to the upper surface of the lip, a spring 37reacting at its free end against a stud 38 and tending to hold theshoulder 35 of the trip 34 in the path of the above mentioned Verticalplate 31, and thus to prevent the thrust spring 29 from displacing thelip from its normal operating or hemming position in which it overhangsthe concave edge-turn mg wall 13.

In the attachment constructed as described, there is thus provided a hemforming cavity which is defined by the concave edge-turning wall 13 ofthe block 7, by the sloping bottom wall 21, concave bend 22 andoverhanging flange :23 of the main-folding portion 8, and by thesupplementary folding member or lip 9. The concave edgeturning wall 13and lip 9 fold the raw edge of the material in and out of sight betweenthe body fabric, which passes over the lip 9, and the under turnedmargin of the fabric which is folded by the main folding portion 8.

When a circular hem is about to be com pletely stitched, i. e., when itsinitially formed stitches are reapproaching the stitch-formingmechanism, they strike the trip 34;, overcoming the light pressure ofspring 37, moving the shoulder 35 from be- 9 hind the vertical plate 31,thus allowing the spring 29 to pull the supplemental folding member orlip 9 out of its obstructing position in the line of seam-formation andto one side thereof, so that the circular seam may be completed withoutstopping the machine. It will thus be seen that automatic means isprovided whereby the supplemental folding member or guide-lip 9 isautomatically released and moved away from the line of seam-formation toan inoperative position at the proper time in distinction from a devicethat is manually operated. Thus, in addition to saving time, it givesmore uniform operation, the lip always being moved to inoperativeposition at the same time in the separate stitching operations.

\Vhile the invention has been described as applied to a two-needlesingle-looper machine, because of the desirability in certain kinds ofknit goods work of laying a covering thread over the inner edge fold ofthe hem, it is obvious that the invention is applicable to almost anytype of stitclr forming mechanism for uniting superimposed layers offabric. Clearly therefore the invention is applicable to a single-needlemachine of a chain or lock-stitch type, if the advantage of the coveringthread is not considered worth. the cost of the additional threadconsumed in making the seam. And further while the invention is shown embodied in a hemming attachment there are certain broad aspects of itwhich render it applicable to attachments other than hemmers, anyattachment in factwhich controls the passage to the stitch-formingmechanism of circular work of which it is de sirable to unitesuperimposed layers, as in lap or fell seaming, binding and the likeoperations.

With the hemming attachment which has been described above, it will bepossible for an operator to increase her capacity and handle a greaternumber of garments a day.

The initially formed stitches of a circular hem are allowed to approachclose enough to the needles before the retractable lip is withdrawn fromits obstructing position to insure uniformity throughout the extent ofthe circular hem when completely seamed. Furthermore when a machine isbeing operated at a high speed the time interval required to stitch fromthe needles to the receiving end of the hemmer is so short thatdistortion of the folded condition of the goods during the time the lipis retracted is extremely unlikely. And finally it is noted thatdisposition of the under hemmer on the end of a feed-across-the-armsewing machine permits the circular seaming of relatively small tubulararticles.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis 1. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, afabric folding device having a folding element in advance of thestitch-forming mechanism and normally in the line of seam formation, andautomatically acting means including a work-governed release element formoving said folding element to one side of the line of seam formationwhereby the stitching of a circular article may be completed with outstopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, adevice for controlling the work as it advances to the stitchformingmechanism, said device being located in advance of the stitch-formingmechanism and normally in the line of seam formation, and automaticallyacting means including a work governed release element for removing thedevice from its normal position in the line of seam formation to permitthe completion of a circular seam without stopping the stitch-formingmechanism.

3. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism", ahemmer having a folding element in advance of the stitchformingmechanism and normally in the line. of seam-formation, and automaticallyacting means including a release element governed by the initial stitchof a circular hem for moving said folding element to one side of theline of scam formation, whereby the stitching of the circular hem may becompleted without stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, ahemmer having a hem-forming cavity, a lip forming a portion of saidhem-forming cavity and located in the line of seam formation in advanceof the stitch-forming mechanism, means tending to hold said lip out ofthe line of seam formation, and work controlled means freeing the lipfor movement from a position in the line of seam formation by the actionof said first-mentioned means to permit complete seaming of acircularhem without stoppingthe machine.

5. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, ahemmer having a hem-folding cavity, an automatically retractable lipdefining a portion of said cavity when in its normal hemming position,and work-governed tripping means carried by said lip whereby it may bereleased for movement from operative hemming position in the line ofseam formation to one side of the line of seam formation.

6. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, in combinationwith a hemmer having a hem-folding cavity, a retractable member defininga portion of said hem-forming cavity when in its operative position, andmeans including a trip for moving said retractable member to a retractedposition.

7. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, in combinationwith a hemmer having a hem-folding cavity, a retractable member defininga portion of said hem-forming cavity when in its operative position,andmeans including a trip for moving said member to a retractedposition, said trip being located in the line of scam formation.

8. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination witha hemmer having a movable portion located in advance of thestitch-forming mechanism and in the line of seam formation during anormal hemming operation, a spring for holding said movable portion in aretracted position to one side of the line of seam formation. latchingmechanism for holding said movable portion in an operative position inthe line of seam formation, said latching mechanism being arranged to betripped by the action of the initial stitches of a circular hem whennearing completion to avoid stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

9. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination witha hammer having a displaceable portion located in the line of seamformation during a normal hemming opera-tion, automatic means forshifting said displaceable portion from a position in to a position atone side of the line of seam formation, and means for holding saiddisplaceable portion in the line of seam formation, said last namedmeans cooperating with the work to free the retractable portion forshifting by the automatic means.

10. A sewing machine having stitch-fornr ing mechanism, in combinationwith a hemmer having a hem-forming cavity, a retractable member forminga portion of said hemforming cavity and located in the line of seamformation in advance of the stitch.-

ping the machine.

11. A sewing machine having stitch-formingn'iechanism, in combinationwith a hemmer for turning under the margin of fabric, and havingahem-forming cavity, a bodily retractable member over which fabric isadapted to pass and adjacent which its edge is folded, and automaticmeans in eluding a work-governed trip for moving said member away fromthe line of seam formation at a given time during a stitching operation.

12. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combinationwith a hemmer for turning under the margin of fabric, and having ahem-forming cavity, a bodily retractable member over which fabric isadapted to pass and adjacent which its edge is folded, and automaticmeans for moving said member away from the line of seam formation, saidautomatic means including a spring and a latching mechanism.

13. A sewing machine having a worksupporting arm, feeding mechanism forad vancing the work across the arm, and stitch forming mechanism, incombination with a hemmer sustained by said work-supporting arm inadvance of the stitch-forming mechanism and having a hem-forming cavityfor turning a margin of the work beneath the body thereof, said hemmeralso having a retractable element defining a portion of the cavity andmeans for retracting said element and work governed means formaintaining the element in hemming position and for releasing theelement for retractionwhen the work being done arrives at a definitelystitched condition.

14. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combinationwith an attachment located in advance ofthe stitch forming mechanism anddirecting the work thereto, said attachment having a retractableelement, and automatically acting means including a work-governed tripfor retracting the element to permit the completion of a circular seam.

15. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle,in combination with an attachment for directing the work under theneedle, said attachment having a shiftable elementin part at leastdirectly in front of the needle and normally obstructing the completestitching of an endless seam, and detaining means coacting with theinitial stitches of an endless seam when they approach the needle toeflect the eeaaea release of the shiftable element for removal from thenormal position in which it obstructs the complete stitching of anendless seam to a non-obstructing position at one side of the line ofseam formation.

16. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle,in combination with an attachment for directing the work under theneedle, said attachment having a shiftable element in part at leastdirectly in front of the needle and normally obstructing the completestitching of an endless seam, and detaining means on the shiftableelement coacting with the initial stitches of an endless seam when theyapproach the needle to effect the release of the shiftable element forremoval from the normal position in which it obstructs the completestitching of an endless seam to a nonobstructing position at one side ofthe line of seam formation.

17. A sewing machine having stitch-"forming mechanism, in combinationwith a workguiding attachment having normally stationary relativelymovable parts, and automatically acting means including a workcontrolledreleasing device for retracting one of them at a given time during astitching operation.

18. A hemmer for making an endless under-turned 'hem having an up-turnedconcave wall terminating in an overhanging flange, an oppositelyarranged guide-wall and lip, a spring normally urging said lip away fromsaid flange, and a spring-presseddetent for holding the lip in hemmingrelation adjacent the flange and against the action of said spring.

19. A hemmer for making an endless under-turned hem having an up-turnedcon cave wall terminating in an overhanging flange, an oppositelyarranged guide-wall and lip, a spring normally urging said lip away fromsaid flange, and readily disengaged means for holding the lip in hemmingrelation against the action of said spring.

20. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, incombination, a hemmer for folding and guiding fabric to the needle, anelement of said hemmer being in obstructing position in front of theneedle and across the path in which the initial stitches of an endlesshem travel, said element being shiftable in part at least in thedirection of the line of seam-formation in its movement to anunobstructive position and being shiftable by the initial stitches of anendless hem whereby an operator is enabled to uninterruptedly stitchcircular articles without stopping the machine and without, manuallyretracting its obstructing element.

21. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism including aneedle, in combination with a hemmer having a lip for guiding thein-turned margin of the work adjacent its edge, a spring for shiftingsaid lip relative to the line of seamformation which extends through theneedle-path in the direction. of feed, a latching device for holdingsaid lip in a normal operating position obstructing the completestitching of a circular hem and against the action of said spring, thelatching device 10 being governable by the initial stitches to permitshifting of the lip relative to the line of seam-formation.

22. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination, amovable 15 work-guiding means, means for detaining said guiding means inwork-guiding position, and automatic means acting, when the guidingmeans is released, to move said guiding means to an inoperativeposition.

23. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination, aretractible work-guiding means, releasable means governed by the Workfor retaining said guiding means in operative position, and automaticmeans, acting when the guiding means is released, to move said guidingmeansto inoperative position.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

